Score fish diagonally on both sides, 3 cuts per side. Rub inside and out with salt, rice wine, and white pepper. Place a few ginger slices inside the cavity.
Prepare steamer. Place fish on a heatproof plate. Steam over high heat for 8–10 minutes (8 for 500g, 10 for 700g). Fish is done when flesh flakes at the thickest part.
While fish steams, julienne remaining ginger and scallions into thin 5cm strips.
Mix soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tbsp water in a small saucepan. Heat until sugar dissolves. Keep warm.
When fish is done, carefully pour off the liquid from the plate.
Lay ginger and scallion strips over the fish. Drizzle with warm soy sauce mixture.
Heat oil in a small pan until just smoking. Pour the hot oil directly over the ginger and scallions — it will sizzle dramatically. Garnish with cilantro and serve immediately.
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