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In Chiang Mai Gate Market, a bold aroma braided with night air as I wandered from refined eateries to the glow of street stalls, and a steaming bowl of khau soi with pork appeared like a warm lantern. The coconut curry swirled with tender pork and chewy noodles, carrying me through market chatter and the city’s old-town charm stitched with neon whispers. My first bite felt like a travel journal turning a page, a memory pressed into the spoon, a dish that proved ordinary nowhere and everywhere at once.
”Blend garlic, shallots and galangal with 1 tbsp oil until a coarse paste.
Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pot, fry curry paste and turmeric 1–2 minutes until aromatic.
Add coconut milk and chicken stock, bring to gentle simmer.
Stir in fish sauce and palm sugar; add sliced chicken (or pork) and simmer 8–10 minutes until cooked.
Meanwhile cook soft noodles in boiling water 2–3 minutes, drain and divide among bowls.
Ladle hot curry broth and meat over noodles; top with crispy fried noodles, green onions and shallot crisps.
Serve with lime wedges and pickled mustard greens on the side to squeeze/addle to taste.
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