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I simmered a home-style Thai Boat Noodles after wandering through Mae Hia Fresh Market, where the rich scent of broth mingled with the night air and lines of street stalls hummed with quick hands and louder conversations. The beef, thinly sliced, sang in a broth seasoned with roasted spices and fermented pork. Sharing the bowl with a traveling companion, we laughed over the steam, promising that this kitchen recreation would travel farther than any souvenir, carrying a hint of the market’s busy heartbeat.
”Roast garlic and shallots in a dry pan until browned, then crush roughly.
Brown beef pieces in 1 tbsp oil, then add bones and cover with 3.5 L water; bring to a boil and skim.
Add roasted garlic, shallots, star anise, cinnamon and peppercorns; simmer 1.5–2 hours until beef is tender.
Season broth with fish sauce, light soy and palm sugar; add dried chili flakes and a splash of dark soy or a little coagulated blood if using for color.
Cook rice noodles in boiling water per package, drain and divide into bowls with beef, cabbage and bean sprouts.
Ladle hot broth over bowls, top with cilantro, green onions and basil or chives, and serve with extra fish sauce or chili on the side.
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